Moisturizing Hand Salve

A simple DIY salve recipe for dry hands (and feet)

Homemade salves in tins

Tired of dealing with dry, cracked hands from everyday chores? Washing dishes, gardening, cleaning, frequent handwashing, and even cold weather take their toll on our hands. A simple homemade hand salve can make a noticeable difference in protecting and softening hardworking skin. Skip the store-bought products filled with unknown chemicals and craft your own nourishing blend using natural ingredients.

Homemade salves are easy to make and easy to customize. At their core, they are simply a blend of oil and beeswax; if you want to try your first salve as just oil and beeswax, go for it! Adding herbs and even essential oils allows you to tailor a salve to your skin’s needs. There are a variety of herbs and essential oils that offer moisturizing, skin-soothing, and healing properties.

bowl of vibrant calendula blossoms

What is a Salve?

Salves are sometimes also referred to as ointments or balms; they are a semi-solid topical preparation made with oil and beeswax, commonly used in herbal skincare. Unlike store-bought skincare products, homemade salves are free from harmful synthetic chemicals, giving you complete control over what goes onto your skin. Salves have a variety of uses, such as soothing irritated skin, calming bites or stings, moisturizing, healing wounds, vapor rub, lip balm, or solid perfume. The first salve I made was a hand moisturizer for my daughter, and we have both been hooked ever since.

Selecting an Oil

You can use plain oil or opt for an herb-infused oil for added benefits and enjoyment. When choosing an oil, consider these options:

• Olive oil: affordable, nourishing, readily available

• Almond oil: light, absorbs well, gentle on skin

• Coconut oil: semi-solid at room temperature, emollient, and may help repair damaged skin

• Avocado oil: rich and moisturizing for very dry skin

• Jojoba oil: mimics skin's natural oils, with a non-greasy feeling

You can also use a combination of oils or add a butter like cocoa butter, mango butter, or shea butter for extra richness. When you are just getting started, use whatever oil you already have in your cupboard. There is no need to overthink it; you can use whatever culinary oil you have on hand.

Herb-Infused Oils

Just as the name implies, herb-infused oils are oils infused with the lipid-soluble constituents of herbs and can be combined with beeswax to make salves. There are a variety of ways to infuse an herb in oil. I prefer to make my infused oils with dried or partially wilted plants. More often than not, I will use the slow infusion folk method as I simply enjoy that method the most. To learn more about how to infuse oils, including the alcohol intermediary method, check out this blog, Herbal Infused Oils

beeswax pastilles

Basic Infused Oil Method

• Fill a clean glass jar about ½ – ⅔ full with chopped, dried herbs

• Cover completely with oil, leaving a little headspace

• Stir to release air bubbles and make sure all plant material is submerged

• Cap, label, and store

• Allow to infuse for 4–6 weeks, shaking occasionally

• Strain and store in a clean, labeled jar

Cutting herbs into smaller pieces (or lightly powdering roots) increases surface area and improves extraction

Alcohol Intermediary Method

Some herbs contain valuable constituents that are water-soluble or alcohol-soluble, but not very oil-soluble. In these cases, using a small amount of alcohol first can improve the results.

An alcohol intermediary is optional, but it can noticeably improve the potency and effectiveness of some herbal oils and salves.

• Powder and weigh your dried herb (note the weight)

• Rehydrate with 100-proof vodka using a 2:1 ratio (herb weight to alcohol volume)

  • Example: 2 oz powdered herb + 1 fl oz vodka

• Cover and let sit 12-24 hours

• Use a 1:7 ratio (herb weight to oil volume)

  • Example: 2 oz herb + 14 fl oz carrier oil

Skin-Nourishing Herbs

Calendula (Calendula officinalis)

A favorite of many herbalists, calendula contains resins and triterpenoids that infuse beautifully into oil, while flavonoids extract more fully with a short alcohol soak

• Alcohol intermediary: improves the extraction of flavonoids, which enhance the anti-inflammatory and antioxidant benefits

Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia)

Calms and soothes irritated skin, reduces redness, and has antimicrobial properties that can help prevent infection, and can provide a mild calming scent

• Alcohol intermediary: not necessary

Plantain (Plantago major, P. lanceolata)

Oil infusions extract some allantoin, a compound that promotes cell regeneration and speeds wound healing by stimulating tissue growth

• Alcohol intermediary: improves the extraction of aucubin and anti-inflammatory and moisturizing compounds

Licorice Root (Glycyrrhiza glabra)

A skin-brightening herb with the compound glabridin

• Alcohol intermediary: significantly improves the extraction of glabridin (skin brightening), glycyrrhizin (anti-inflammatory), for more potent skin-brightening and anti-inflammatory effects

Rosemary (Salvia rosmarinus)

Oil extracts rosemary's lipophilic antioxidants (carnosic acid) and aromatic compounds that stimulate circulation and provide skin-protective benefits

• Alcohol intermediary: helpful but not essential

Violet (Viola odorata)

Violets offer wonderful skin-soothing and protective properties for irritated or delicate skin

• Alcohol intermediary: improves the overall skin-softening ability of the infusion

Purple Dead Nettle (Lamium purpureum)

A common yard weed that offers mild, soothing effects for dry or irritated skin

• Alcohol intermediary: improves the extraction of flavonoids and phenolic compounds for enhanced anti-inflammatory benefits

Common Yard Daisies (Bellis perennis)

Contains anti-inflammatory triterpenes that help to soothe irritated skin or damaged skin and promote healing

• Alcohol intermediary: improves the potency and efficacy of the anti-inflammatory properties

Linden (Tilia spp.)

Oil extracts some of linden's gentle, soothing compounds

• Alcohol intermediary: improves the overall soothing and anti-inflammatory effects in salves

Tulsi (Ocimum sanctum)

Oil infusions extract some beneficial compounds, but for the best results, use an alcohol intermediary

• Alcohol intermediary: significantly improves the extraction of ursolic acid (promotes collagen synthesis, protects skin barrier, anti-inflammatory) and eugenol (antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory)

Olive Leaf (Olea europaea)

Rich in antioxidants, with anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties, which can help protect the skin from damage and soothe inflammation

• Alcohol intermediary: significantly improves the extraction of antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial components that offer protection for the skin

Peach Leaves (Prunus persica)

Contains mild astringent and soothing constituents that can be used for irritated or allergy-prone skin

• Alcohol intermediary: improves the extraction of tannins and phenolic compounds for better astringent and soothing effects

Skin-Nourishing Essential Oils

Essential oils are optional in salves and should always be used at appropriate dilution rates. When included, they can add aroma and additional skin-supportive qualities.

Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia)

Long-renowned for its skin healing properties, helping with burns, wounds, itching, rashes, general skin irritations, and more

Frankincense (Boswellia spp.)

Commonly used in skin care for its cicatrisant (skin healing) properties

Patchouli (Pogostemon cablin)

Often used in dry or cracked skin formulations, as it has been shown to help with skin healing and reduce inflammation

Helichrysum (Helichrysum italicum)

Skin care go-to oil that can help with wound healing, cell regeneration, and is anti-inflammatory

Moisturizing Hand Salve Recipe

For a simplified version, start with just one herb (lavender) and skip the essential oils and alcohol intermediary.

• 2 parts licorice root

• 1 part lavender flowers and leaves

• 1 part rosemary leaves

• vodka

• oil: almond oil or jojoba

• beeswax, 1:4 ratio beeswax to oil

• lavender essential oil (optional)

• frankincense essential oil (optional)

Gather your dried herbs, enough to fill a mason jar halfway, then grind them to a coarse powder. (If you are not into the alcohol intermediary method, simply skip these steps and add the oil over the herbs.)

Weigh the herbs. Add 1 oz of vodka per 2 oz of herb. Cover and allow to sit for 12-24 hours.

Using a 1:7 ratio (herb weight to oil volume), add your oil, being sure to submerge the herbs.

Label and seal the jar, then set it aside for 4-6 weeks for slow infusion, or use a double boiler to gently heat the mixture for several hours. Once the oil is infused, strain off the herbs.

In a double boiler over low-medium heat, melt the 1 oz of beeswax per 4 oz of oil. You can heat the beeswax with some or all of your infused oil, or wait to add the oil until the beeswax is melted. Use minimal heat and time to prevent degradation of the oils. Remove from heat once the beeswax is melted and the oil is incorporated with the melted beeswax.

If adding essential oils, cool the beeswax-oil blend slightly before adding them.

For a 0.5% dilution, add up to 3 drops of essential oil per ounce of infused oil

For a 1% dilution, add up to 6 drops per ounce of infused oil

Stir well to disperse the essential oils.

Pour the mixture into salve tins or small glass jars.

Be sure to label your final product with the ingredients and date you made it.

For easier clean-up after melting beeswax, wipe the container with a paper towel before the wax hardens. If the wax hardens, reheat it to remelt it.

Final Thoughts

These simple preparations work by supporting the skin’s natural protective and repair processes. Now that you have the basics of creating your own salve, it's time to let your creativity run wild! Don't be afraid to switch up the herbs, proportions, or essential oils to suit your preferences or address specific skin concerns. Maybe you want to infuse some vibrant violet for its soothing properties or add sweet orange essential oil for an energizing twist. The possibilities are nearly endless!